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Carrying out repair in the bathroom, after the choice of new wall and floor tile, quite often there is question what to do from the old pig-iron bathroom. To change for new? However the price of new bathtub not all on pocket. And purchase of new bathtub can cause additional expenses, such as dismantling and export of old plumbing fixtures, purchase of suitable fitting, installation of the bathroom. If to leave old bathtub alone, it the worn-out and shabby look can visually spoil all new interior in the bathroom after carrying out repair. But, you should not despond, such plumbing fixtures as can have bathtub the second. And independent restoration of pig-iron bathtub quite can do to much of us.
Ways of restoration of pig-iron bathtub:
- Filling acrylic covering;
- Drawing manually new enamel;
- Installation in bathtub of acrylic insert.
Restoration of bathtub in the way of fruit liqueur of acrylic
For this way of restoration, first of all, it will be required to buy epoxy acrylic two-component enamel. At once it is necessary to warn that you should not buy acrylic for filling in the different construction markets. Behind this material it is necessary to go directly to brand store. But also there are reefs, practically in 90% of cases two-component epoxy acrylic enamel for bathtub meets only white color. That is it will not be possible to receive bathtub of light blue or turquoise color. Though, the hope nevertheless is to find such colors.
Work on restoration is begun with surface preparation. First of all all surface is cleaned, using powdery cleanser and brush with nylon pile of average rigidity. Having well cleaned surface from fat and other pollution, all cleaning agent is carefully washed away in the sewerage, to the bathtub allow to dry out in the natural way. Further under the bathroom sewer draining is turned off and under strut or draining the iron trough or low basin is established.
At the following stage the perforator or powerful drill with adjustment of speed rotation will be required. In the boss of drill the nozzle with small abrasive surface is fixed. After that and on abrasive nozzle apply the cleanser in a dry form applied earlier on the dry surface of old enamel and cleaning and removal of old enamel before education on surface marks from abrasive nozzle is made. In those places where it is inconvenient to work as drill with nozzle, for example in places of turns and bends, I apply abrasive paper of average granularity. For convenience abrasive paper it is possible to envelop small wooden round bar which will conveniently hold in hand.
After carrying out cleaning of surface abrasive, all removed raid and cleanser is washed away. After that all surface needs to be dried. Many make big mistake at this stage, wiping the cleaned bathtub surface dry with rags. From rags there can be dust or pile which hit is inadmissible. It is the best of all to dry surface the hair dryer. After drying of bathtub prepare structure for filling. The structure prepares from two components — bases of enamel and hardener. Approximate ratio – 7 parts of epoxy acrylic basis on 1 part of hardener. More exact proportions need to be looked on specifically chosen enamel grade. Having poured components in net capacity, all structure is carefully mixed drill with nozzle. The received structure begins to be poured with the top on bathtub perimeter, gradually decreasing to bathtub bottom. The structure does not demand smoothing by brush and in itself forms covering 3-5 mm thick. At the same time excess of structure will flow down in the capacity substituted under draining. The bathtub is ready for operation the 4th day later after filling enamel.
Way of putting enamel manually brush
It is initially necessary to buy special enamel for restoration of pig-iron bathtub. This enamel is always on sale in the set consisting of basis and hardener. Some producers produce enamels of different tonality, other producers produce enamel only of white color and offer in addition different colors to basis and hardener. We will not begin to consider quality of enamels from different producers, however it is necessary to emphasize that you should not save on enamel, the initial result of work depends on its quality. When choosing shade of enamel, there is one rule: the tonality of shade of enamel should not be lighter, than tonality of old factory enamel on bathtub. If to cover bathtub of turquoise color with white enamel, then it will not be possible to receive snow-white surface.
After acquisition of enamel start surface preparation. For obtaining good adhesion, the surface of bathtub needs to be washed up several times warm water with cleanser it is desirable for powdery consistence and after that to process all surface abrasive paper of average granularity. The surface for putting new enamel has to be obligatory for rough and have opaque shade. Special attention when grinding should be paid to vertical walls of bathtub as the bottom in fact already has the rough surface formed from time. For acceleration of process of cleaning of surface it is possible to use the grinder equipped with emery film No. 24. After processing of surface the bathtub is repeatedly washed, at the same time it is necessary to wash away the remains of cleaning agent carefully.
At the following stage start putting enamel. Previously in net capacity mix basis with hardener in the proportions specified on packaging. If there is the third component additional color, it is entered into structure after careful hashing of hardener with basis. Having made composition of enamel, pass to its drawing. At once it is necessary to tell that putting enamel on surface of bathtub is unlike not one type of painting. Initially the brush is almost completely dipped into capacity with enamel. It is the best of all to use brush 9-10 cm wide made of natural bristle.
Having moistened brush, it is taken and allowed it to flow down. Further the brush is repeatedly dipped into enamel on 1/3 bristles and, since the most upper edge of board of bathtub, from top to down, carry out wide strip to the middle of bottom. After that movements to the right and to the left, from bottom to top the applied enamel is stretched. Having reached to the very top, the brush is moistened with structure and carry out parallel strip. Then, again, horizontal movements, rising to top, make extension and rubbing in of enamel. After putting enamel on all surface, it is necessary to wait about 20 minutes and to make smoothing of the formed natural smudges in the direction from below top, kind of I extend structure. It is possible to use bathing after restoration 5 days later.
Mounting in bathtub of acrylic insert
This way cardinally differs from previous and it consists in capital mounting in pig-iron bathtub of acrylic insert. At this way painting skills will not be required, and all work can be performed in several hours. Of course, it will be possible to use the bathroom 1-2 days later after restoration. First of all it is necessary to buy acrylic insert for bathtub and special polyurethane foam for work of this type (normal polyurethane foam does not approach) and sealant.
Work is begun with dismantling adjacent tile to bathroom board. Further fatly apply marker on draining and reserve outflow of the bathroom, for example, it is possible to put simple pencil. After drawing marker submerge acrylic insert in pig-iron bathtub, and having slightly pressed in those places where drainings are planned, transfer marks to insert. At this stage also make mark on board level. Usually acrylic inserts make with the boards having stock. It should be noted point of cutting of excess acrylic precisely. It is possible to cut off excess board of acrylic insert by means of the little Bulgarian or the electrofret saw. Openings under the main and reserve draining make by means of drill the diamond crown equipped in the boss.
Having finished with preparation of insert, start processing of old enamel. Here the following principle works: the surface will be shershavy, the adhesion of polyurethane foam and sealant will be better with it. The easiest to make processing of surface the grinder or drill with abrasive nozzle. After processing of all surface, the bathtub is washed several times with cleaning agent and make drying of surface the hair dryer. Further dismantling of drain siphons is made and on the very brink boards the sealant strip is put. Polyurethane foam is applied after sealant as it stiffens quicker.
Before applying polyurethane foam it it is necessary to shake up and heat cylinder to temperature specified on it. Putting foam is made from top to down to the center for all surface of bathtub. After putting foam in bathtub make insert of acrylic insert and if necessary on edges of boards add sealant. Also very quickly make mounting of the removed siphons, rubber plugs are inserted into siphons and in bathtub water of room temperature is filled. Water in this case performs function of load and thanks to the operating uniform load the acrylic insert densely will be pasted to the pig-iron basis. In order that the boards processed by sealant did not depart on them temporarily install clamps. At the same time not to damage acrylic insert, between sponges of clamps place small wooden levels.