Warming of external walls of wooden house

Warming of external walls of wooden house

Need of warming of wooden house can be dictated by noticeable increase in heatlosses and also desire to lower energy costs. Certainly, warming of walls it is possible to achieve excellent results. Heat insulation of walls from within the house is not always possible, and here outside to warm the house most reasonablly though this process and demands a lot of time and works. Advantages of outside warming is that:

  • cooling happens from facing and heater gradually, carefully affecting wood structure, thereby preserving it;
  • application, the protected from above, cellular materials (mineral wool) excludes accumulation of moisture and favors to creation of standard moisture conditions;
  • rainfall, hot sunshine, etc. natural factors do not influence wood structure that is the key to its long-term operation;
  • facing of the house allows to receive the updated esthetic image of the dwelling.

The most suitable time for such works, of course, is the warm period of time when it is possible to work in the light clothes which are not constraining the movement. Besides, in cold time it is possible to catch a cold seriously since warming process long and rather difficult. The most popular way of warming of walls of wooden houses is laying as heater of mineral wool and further facing by siding. The popularity of this method is explained by the fact that mineral wool and siding are some of the cheapest materials. Mounting of siding to walls of wooden house is not so difficult also in the course of its long-term application, material has well proved in the conditions of unstable climate.

What to begin with?

Before performing works on warming, it is necessary to be convinced of integrity of logs, for this purpose it is necessary to inspect everyone by means of the hammer or other heavy metal subject. The hammer it is necessary to tap each of logs: in the presence of hollow sound it is worth pricking up the ears and, perhaps, to make the decision on replacement of the spoiled log. The lower logs of walls therefore they need to be inspected with special care are, as a rule, subject to rotting.

It is necessary to remove platbands from windows, sun blind and all other decorative elements.

Further it is necessary to examine joints regarding tightness and where it is necessary, to caulk joints special purpose tool. If you do not have that, then any tool with metal or wooden blade will approach. As gasket material use tow, flax fiber, etc. In the presence of cracks in cavity of logs, it is necessary to close up them sealant.
Corners of the house need to be leveled, if necessary to cut the acting logs to identical length.
If necessary, logs on all height can be impregnated with antifungal and fire-prevention structures.

Choice of devices, tools and materials

To reduce time of work and to ensure safety of their carrying out, it is necessary to prepare devices and tools. It is not obligatory to get lacking, it is possible to ask for good neighbors for a while. Be at one and consult to them as it is better to carry out works if they, of course already have experience of similar works. So, will be necessary for performance of work:

  • couple of strong ladders;
  • hacksaw;
  • axe;
  • hammer;
  • combination pliers;
  • big sharp scissors;
  • plumb;
  • pair of water levels;
  • screw driver;
  • twine or other thick thread;
  • the wooden bars processed by anti-septic tank section 20 h40 – 40 x 80 mm;
  • tape measures of 1 m and 10 m;
  • nails;
  • heater;
  • siding.

The most expensive material for the forthcoming works is the siding to calculate amount of necessary material, it is necessary to carry out the corresponding measurements. For this purpose it is necessary to arm with notebook or notebook, the handle, tape measure. It is more convenient to make measurements together. Measure length and width of walls to corners and increase length by height, it also will be the area of one wall. It is necessary to subtract the area of door and window openings from the received digit, for this purpose it is necessary to measure their height and width, to increase and, if necessary, to sum up. Outline the plan of the house in notebook and apply on it data of the calculations. Except panels for finishing of the house will be required:

  • finishing J-levels;
  • external and internal corners;
  • starting strips;
  • edging levels;
  • platbands for windows;
  • slopes;
  • connecting levels;
  • outflow;
  • self-tapping screws.

The need for these elements is calculated also by method of measurements and summing.

Buying panels, it must be kept in mind their standard length. Most often buy panels of 6-meter length and with stock. In the course of calculations it is possible to make mistakes and also it is not recommended to use the short remains from panels on the long parties. Perhaps, they can be applied to finishing of piers or corners of the house.

Warming of external walls of wooden house

What siding to choose for outside facing?

For outside facing the following type of panels is recommended: glued lining; plates from natural wood; steel panels and vinyl (PVC). Most often, choose the PVC panels. They are cheapest, easy in mounting, are rather strong and durable, if necessary it is possible to make replacement of damaged panels without dismantling of all design. Today it is possible to choose panel PVC with imitation of any natural material and registration of facade by means of siding can be limited only to imagination and financial opportunities. Today import panels of natural natural flowers are in the greatest demand: white, gray, blue, brown, beige, etc. Quite often carry out compositions from 2 and more shades of one color. Get for exterior finish of PVC of the panel 1 – 1.5 mm thick.

Mineral wool is one of the most demanded materials when warming wooden houses. Material is not expensive, plain in mounting and has excellent utilization properties:

  • minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity;
  • high coefficient of heat insulation;
  • low hygroscopicity;
  • it is steady against high and low temperatures and also against temperature differences;
  • it is steady against all types of wreckers and itself is anti-septic tank;
  • does not emit toxins.

During the work with mineral wool it is necessary to provide protection of eyes, body and airways. Dust from material is harmful and at hit on skin can cause irritations, not to mention hit in eyes or airways. The minvat with a density of 35 kg/m3 needs to apply to outside warming.

Whether it is necessary to do antiseptics and vapor barrier?

If the wooden house has staid not one decade, the vapor barrier can be not done. If the house is about 5 years old, then specialists recommend to make vapor barrier before warming. Use for this purpose, most often, polyethylene film. It is also possible to buy roofing material or aluminum foil for these purposes. In case of warming by mineral wool and facings by siding, it is recommended to use vapor-permeable film over isolation. Antiseptic is made if there are centers of defeat of wood and fear of their distribution on other square.

Production of furring

The option of facing of the house siding with preliminary warming by mineral wool demands arrangement of furring on all area of the planned facing. Special wood furring is carried out in 2 layers, as material for it serve wooden rails or bars, well dry-through, having impregnation by anti-septic tank and fire-prevention liquid. The first layer of furring is carried out horizontally, the second – vertically, at the same time thickness of wooden bars of the first layer has to correspond to heater layer thickness. It is not recommended to use bars more thickly than 50 mm.

The step between bars has to provide heater laying, i.e. heater has to be located between bars, at the same time the distance between bars has to be less than its width approximately on 2 cm, it will allow to stack material without additional fastening. Besides, material will not form gaps in use (not to slip). Rails (bars) have to fasten by means of suitable nails on all length of wall: from corner to corner. Heater is put in 2 layers, with condition of overlapping of joints the whole cloths.

For protection of heater it is recommended to lay over it vapor-permeable wind-shelter film which will exclude blowing off of heater and will interfere in addition with cooling of wooden walls, and the vapor permeability of film will exclude formation of condensate. Fix film to wooden rails by means of the construction stapler or special brackets.

Vertical furring is made also of bars or rails with a section of 30 x 40 mm. Bars (rails) fasten to horizontal furring by means of nails of the corresponding size or self-tapping screws. For the device of vertical furring choose step to 40 cm.

Throughout all works on the device of furring it is necessary to use plumb and levels, rails from the biggest camber of wall and already under the beaten first rail begin to fix, level all furring. Under rails it is possible to enclose the remains of the same rails or boards of suitable thickness.

Especially not equal walls are recommended to be equipped with three-layer furring. The first layer of threefold furring vertical which is leveled in the plane. The second layer – for heater and the third – for fastening of panels.

Around window and door openings the frame is made so that then on wooden rails it was possible to mount slopes and platbands.

Mounting of siding

Not bright panels of natural shades are least subject to fading for this reason such coloring are most popular. The term of operation of siding reaches 35 years therefore correctly laid heater and competently mounted panels are the key to long duration of external esthetics and favorable internal climate in the house.

It is necessary to begin facing works with installation of the starting panel low of all walls of the house. The top of the starting panel is the beginning of mounting of the first of PVC of the panel, i.e. mounting of panels begins from below. The starting panel is leveled strictly on horizontal line, for this purpose use levels and pull twine.

After mounting of the starting panel internal, external corners and profiles fix to fix them strictly vertically, it is necessary to use plumb. Corners fix, beginning from above, on self-tapping screws, gradually moving ahead down and all the time, controlling vertical.

Windows frame with window slopes or finishing profiles, slopes carry out before mounting of siding.

Locks latches which they also fasten to each other have siding of the panel. It is necessary to cut off panels taking into account temperature expansion, expansion is 5-9 mm therefore the panel has to be shorter than length of wall (pier) on 9 mm.

Besides, panels fasten to wood furring self-tapping screws or small nails with big hats. Self-tapping screws (nails) place in the center of the openings provided on panels and bring them not all the way down, without reaching the panel about 1.5 mm. It is necessary for preservation of form of the revetted surface, siding, as well as any other material, has property to extend and contract depending on external temperatures. If to fix panels it is rigid, then there can be buckling.

As a rule, carry out mounting of one wall at once, then pass to another. This method is most reasonable since it is not necessary to move constantly materials, tools and ladders.
Corners of the house carry out after completion of mounting of panels on the main surfaces by the principle of the main mounting.

Among decorative elements in shop can offer you all accompanying elements by means of which it is possible to revet completely the house up to roof.

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